Citrus reticulata
Red, yellow, green...this is not a stop light, but a list of mandarin essential oils available to you. If you love citrus fragrances, you should add some mandarin essential oils to your collection. The mandarin oils are my favorite of the citruses, with a depth and uniqueness that stand out in this field of fruity oils.
Like other citruses, the essential oil is expressed from the peel. It is inexpensive for an essential oil, though more costly than some of the other citruses. While I think of it primarily in terms of perfumery, it's cost allows you to add some to bath and body products. Mandarin oil is GRAS (generally recognized as safe), so you can add it to lip balms. According to Tisserand (Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed) mandarin essential oil from the fruit isn't phototoxic, so it is safe for use in products that will stay on the skin, like lotions and balms. However, mandarin leaf (mandarin petitgrain) essential oil is phototoxic.
The different varieties offer you a chance to fine tune your fragrance, since each one is a bit different. Sweet, tart, and a bit floral, mandarin will provide a fine top note to your perfumes. Mandarin allows you to add citrus that isn't immediately recognizable, while also smoothing the way between the citrus notes and your floral notes. Per Arctander, mandarin essential oils contain methyl-n-methyl anthranilate, which is what gives the oil it's neroli-like floral note.
Similar:
Mandarin Petitgrain
Tangerine
Neroli
Previously:
Lavender
Kewda
Jasmine
Immortelle
Ho Wood
Ginger
Frankincense
Fragrance, beauty, and business.
Showing posts with label Chemistry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chemistry. Show all posts
Wednesday, March 9, 2016
Monday, May 11, 2015
An Artist in a Laboratory
Sagarin, Edward, The Science and Art of Perfumery, New York, NY: Greenberg, 1955.
The post title is the chapter title from The Science and Art of Perfumery, a book that captures how I feel about fragrance. The book was rebound into a blue, dull cover, and when I picked it up from the library, I didn't expect much from it. But it is one of my favorite overviews on the subject, covering a wide array of topics in a short and enjoyable read. I really liked Sagarin's writing style, often beautiful but never flowery, and filled with quote from poetry and prose.
The book starts with the history of fragrance, followed by a few chapters on the materials. When Sagarin discusses musk, it is sounds so tragic. The hunters lure the musk deer out by playing on flutes, leading these poor creatures to their deaths. I don't know if that's how it really worked, but it creates such a sad image to me.
From the natural materials Sagarin moves on to the creation of the early synthetics, first their attempts to duplicate, and then their attempts to create brand new aromachemicals. "An Artist in a Laboratory" is the first chapter on fragrance creation, and that, along with a chapter on flavors, tries to capture the odd nature of this work. On the one hand you're surrounded by the tools of a chemist, but on the other you're exploring the delicate nuances of a scent.
Sagarin breaks down the elements of a sample formula, covering the essential oils and molecules used. There are also chapters on odor description, marketing, business, and medicine. Despite the numerous topics, everything ties together nicely, with the rich history of perfume holding it all together. Even at the end of the book, instead of a bibliography, there is a historical overview of perfumery literature.
On the surface perfumery may seem simple, but a single fragrance can involve millions of considerations. Do you use this jasmine or that one? Even if they're pretty close, at a molecular level, they might have differences that can change the feeling of a scent. Should you use materials from endangered species? For me, it's easy to say I want to avoid the animal ingredients, but what about rosewood and sandalwood? Is it better to use synthetic materials instead with the hope of limiting environmental destruction? You need to consider the toxicity and allergenicity of the materials used, regardless of how they're derived. You need to make sure it smell good in the final product- fragrances used for laundry detergents have different considerations than personal fragrances.
And then there's what you want to say with the fragrance you're creating. Even with all the science that goes into it, in the end you want a piece of art that speaks not only to you, but hopefully to someone else as well.
"And indeed there will be time
To wonder, “Do I dare?” and, “Do I dare?”
Time to turn back and descend the stair,
With a bald spot in the middle of my hair —
(They will say: “How his hair is growing thin!”)
My morning coat, my collar mounting firmly to the chin,
My necktie rich and modest, but asserted by a simple pin —
(They will say: “But how his arms and legs are thin!”)
Do I dare
Disturb the universe?
In a minute there is time
For decisions and revisions which a minute will reverse."
-T.S. Eliot, The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock
The post title is the chapter title from The Science and Art of Perfumery, a book that captures how I feel about fragrance. The book was rebound into a blue, dull cover, and when I picked it up from the library, I didn't expect much from it. But it is one of my favorite overviews on the subject, covering a wide array of topics in a short and enjoyable read. I really liked Sagarin's writing style, often beautiful but never flowery, and filled with quote from poetry and prose.
The book starts with the history of fragrance, followed by a few chapters on the materials. When Sagarin discusses musk, it is sounds so tragic. The hunters lure the musk deer out by playing on flutes, leading these poor creatures to their deaths. I don't know if that's how it really worked, but it creates such a sad image to me.
From the natural materials Sagarin moves on to the creation of the early synthetics, first their attempts to duplicate, and then their attempts to create brand new aromachemicals. "An Artist in a Laboratory" is the first chapter on fragrance creation, and that, along with a chapter on flavors, tries to capture the odd nature of this work. On the one hand you're surrounded by the tools of a chemist, but on the other you're exploring the delicate nuances of a scent.
Sagarin breaks down the elements of a sample formula, covering the essential oils and molecules used. There are also chapters on odor description, marketing, business, and medicine. Despite the numerous topics, everything ties together nicely, with the rich history of perfume holding it all together. Even at the end of the book, instead of a bibliography, there is a historical overview of perfumery literature.
On the surface perfumery may seem simple, but a single fragrance can involve millions of considerations. Do you use this jasmine or that one? Even if they're pretty close, at a molecular level, they might have differences that can change the feeling of a scent. Should you use materials from endangered species? For me, it's easy to say I want to avoid the animal ingredients, but what about rosewood and sandalwood? Is it better to use synthetic materials instead with the hope of limiting environmental destruction? You need to consider the toxicity and allergenicity of the materials used, regardless of how they're derived. You need to make sure it smell good in the final product- fragrances used for laundry detergents have different considerations than personal fragrances.
And then there's what you want to say with the fragrance you're creating. Even with all the science that goes into it, in the end you want a piece of art that speaks not only to you, but hopefully to someone else as well.
 |
| Rose Science- The scent and color of rose varies widely depending on the exact species and the type of extraction. |
"And indeed there will be time
To wonder, “Do I dare?” and, “Do I dare?”
Time to turn back and descend the stair,
With a bald spot in the middle of my hair —
(They will say: “How his hair is growing thin!”)
My morning coat, my collar mounting firmly to the chin,
My necktie rich and modest, but asserted by a simple pin —
(They will say: “But how his arms and legs are thin!”)
Do I dare
Disturb the universe?
In a minute there is time
For decisions and revisions which a minute will reverse."
-T.S. Eliot, The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock
Friday, May 1, 2015
Some Essentials on Essential Fatty Acids
Once vilified, fats and oils are now celebrated. Hardly a day goes by without me seeing a post about the top ten uses for coconut oil or such. Honestly, I think the best part about virgin coconut oil is that it smells and tastes like coconuts. And refined coconut oil? It's a good cheap oil for soap, bringing lots of lather to your recipe. It's a good source of medium-chain fatty acids and has a good shelf life. However, it only has a small amount of Linoleic acid, one of the essential fatty acids (EFAs).
I recently finished reading Susan M. Parker's Power of the Seed, and I recommend it to anyone who wants to learn more. It's a pretty awful title, but it's a good book. It covers the chemistry and components of oils, plus it includes a lot of profiles (about 90, I believe) of various oils. There are several appendices that help present the information on the oils in various ways, including a saponification value chart, if you make soap). There are few recipes if you don't know where to start with all the oils.
A Little Science
There are two essential fatty acids- Linoleic Acid (LA) and alpha-Linolenic acid (LNA). They are called such because your body doesn't produce them, so you need to get them from other sources. They're both polyunsaturated fatty acids, meaning they have two or more double bonds in their carbon chains. Saturated fatty acids don't have double bonds and are less susceptible to oxidation. LA has 2 double bonds, and LNA has 3, so LNA has the shorter shelf life of the two.
LA is an omega-6 fatty acid, and LNA is omega-3. You've probably heard of omega-3, and maybe omega-6 and omega-9. All unsaturated fatty acids have omega names, and the number refers to the first double bond in from the free end (the omega) of the chain. For omega-3, this means means your first double bond occurs at the third carbon in the chain,counting in from the omega. Saturated fats do not have omega names, which probably makes them sad.
Eating Your Omega-3
It's not my place to give medical advice, so I'm going to discuss sources rather than health benefits. It's easier to get enough linoleic acid in your diet, but fewer foods have high percentages of LNA. You'll often see omega-3 supplements, sometimes in pill form or as a straight oil.
You might think of fish when you hear omega-3, and most of the supplements for omega-3 fatty acids are various of fish oils. Other than a brief time when I was four years old, I never liked fish, plus I went vegetarian when I was a teenager. So I do not recommend fish, because I think they're gross as a food and they belong swimming merrily in the water. And if you're an omnivore who doesn't like fish but is considering fish oil supplements, I have two words for you- fish burp. Some will claim not to cause fish burps, but do you really want to risk it?
If want to consume your omega-3 fatty acids through whole foods, there are a few plant sources that are high in LNA. Chia and flax seeds are excellent sources. You should store both in the refrigerator, and grind the flax before using. Hemp seed and walnuts also provide a fair amount of LNA. Several berry and fruit seed oils have a decent amount, but it'd be hard to eat enough fruit to get the proper amount of fat.
If you want to supplement, flax and chia seed oils are available in pill form. If you're vegetarian, check the ingredients, since some of the supplements use gelatin. While your body can produce DHA and EPA (more omega-3 fatty acids), it's not always very efficient, so there are supplements for those two fatty acids as well. DHA and EPA typically come from fish oil, but there are some vegan supplements out there. I think they're derived from algae. The best sources for GLA (an omega-6) are borage, evening primrose, and black currant seed oils. These also come in pill form, and again check the ingredients if you're vegetarian.
Omega-6 for Your Skin
In addition to eating LA and LNA, you should consider using oils with these fatty acids on your skin. Dry, damaged, or acneic skin often have low-levels of linoleic acid, so using oils rich in LA might help balance the skin. If you're not using a single oil, look for oil blends or lotions that contain LA-rich oils. Since they are more likely oxidize quickly, a blend will probably help with shelf life.
A few good oils with high percentages of LA include evening primrose, grape seed, hemp, walnut, and wheat germ. Safflower and sunflower are also good sources, but only if they're not the high-oleic hybrids. Popular skincare oils argan, rose hip seed, rice bran, and sea buckthorn also have decent amounts. The oils have different properties, so some may be better for your particular skin type.
Susan M. Parker, Power of the Seed: A Guide to Oils for Health & Beauty, Port Townsend, WA: 2014, Process Media. ISBN: 978-1-934170-54-0
I recently finished reading Susan M. Parker's Power of the Seed, and I recommend it to anyone who wants to learn more. It's a pretty awful title, but it's a good book. It covers the chemistry and components of oils, plus it includes a lot of profiles (about 90, I believe) of various oils. There are several appendices that help present the information on the oils in various ways, including a saponification value chart, if you make soap). There are few recipes if you don't know where to start with all the oils.
A Little Science
There are two essential fatty acids- Linoleic Acid (LA) and alpha-Linolenic acid (LNA). They are called such because your body doesn't produce them, so you need to get them from other sources. They're both polyunsaturated fatty acids, meaning they have two or more double bonds in their carbon chains. Saturated fatty acids don't have double bonds and are less susceptible to oxidation. LA has 2 double bonds, and LNA has 3, so LNA has the shorter shelf life of the two.
LA is an omega-6 fatty acid, and LNA is omega-3. You've probably heard of omega-3, and maybe omega-6 and omega-9. All unsaturated fatty acids have omega names, and the number refers to the first double bond in from the free end (the omega) of the chain. For omega-3, this means means your first double bond occurs at the third carbon in the chain,counting in from the omega. Saturated fats do not have omega names, which probably makes them sad.
Eating Your Omega-3
It's not my place to give medical advice, so I'm going to discuss sources rather than health benefits. It's easier to get enough linoleic acid in your diet, but fewer foods have high percentages of LNA. You'll often see omega-3 supplements, sometimes in pill form or as a straight oil.
You might think of fish when you hear omega-3, and most of the supplements for omega-3 fatty acids are various of fish oils. Other than a brief time when I was four years old, I never liked fish, plus I went vegetarian when I was a teenager. So I do not recommend fish, because I think they're gross as a food and they belong swimming merrily in the water. And if you're an omnivore who doesn't like fish but is considering fish oil supplements, I have two words for you- fish burp. Some will claim not to cause fish burps, but do you really want to risk it?
If want to consume your omega-3 fatty acids through whole foods, there are a few plant sources that are high in LNA. Chia and flax seeds are excellent sources. You should store both in the refrigerator, and grind the flax before using. Hemp seed and walnuts also provide a fair amount of LNA. Several berry and fruit seed oils have a decent amount, but it'd be hard to eat enough fruit to get the proper amount of fat.
If you want to supplement, flax and chia seed oils are available in pill form. If you're vegetarian, check the ingredients, since some of the supplements use gelatin. While your body can produce DHA and EPA (more omega-3 fatty acids), it's not always very efficient, so there are supplements for those two fatty acids as well. DHA and EPA typically come from fish oil, but there are some vegan supplements out there. I think they're derived from algae. The best sources for GLA (an omega-6) are borage, evening primrose, and black currant seed oils. These also come in pill form, and again check the ingredients if you're vegetarian.
Omega-6 for Your Skin
In addition to eating LA and LNA, you should consider using oils with these fatty acids on your skin. Dry, damaged, or acneic skin often have low-levels of linoleic acid, so using oils rich in LA might help balance the skin. If you're not using a single oil, look for oil blends or lotions that contain LA-rich oils. Since they are more likely oxidize quickly, a blend will probably help with shelf life.
A few good oils with high percentages of LA include evening primrose, grape seed, hemp, walnut, and wheat germ. Safflower and sunflower are also good sources, but only if they're not the high-oleic hybrids. Popular skincare oils argan, rose hip seed, rice bran, and sea buckthorn also have decent amounts. The oils have different properties, so some may be better for your particular skin type.
Susan M. Parker, Power of the Seed: A Guide to Oils for Health & Beauty, Port Townsend, WA: 2014, Process Media. ISBN: 978-1-934170-54-0
Thursday, April 30, 2015
Chemistry and Poetry
I remember at my job interview for my library assistant position I was asked, "What brings you joy?" It was probably just a throw away question, one meant to be easy. The interviewer, an HR assistant, said it's fine to answer with money, that's what some people answer. Oh, if money was all I needed for joy- at least it is tangible. A lot of things make me happy- cats, the scent of jasmine in the air, the people I love...But this happiness is a fleeting feeling, not a sustained feeling of contentedness.
I answered that finishing something brings me joy. Like putting the finishing touches on something I created, or getting to the end of a difficult book. I do read plenty of books more for knowledge than entertainment, so sometimes just getting through them feels like an accomplishment.
I think I did horribly with that job interview, even ignoring that question, but I got the job anyway. I guess there weren't many other people interested in it, plus I was able to temp while they were deciding. I'm more impressive working than interviewing. During my time there, I learned that there is never an end to anything- assignments from years ago would rise from the dead. Never knowing if something was truly over, I couldn't enjoy anything. I worked there for over eight years, and by the time I quit I was bored and frustrated at the lack of opportunity to advance. The only interesting work left was for me to head down to our "technical books" section and find specifics on semiconductors, 802.11, programming, etc. (By the way, isn't OOPSLA the most fun name for a conference? I just love it.)
I love learning. I've been studying cosmetic chemistry kind of casually since I started the business, but I've been delving deeper into it lately. I listen to chemistry lectures instead of music while working. I read books with funny squiggly carbon chains. Those carbon diagrams used to confuse me, but now I enjoy them. And so I start wondering if I should go back to school and get my master's in cosmetic chemistry.
Oh, but how I hate formal education! I feel like I've learned so much more on my own than I did in school. I did well in school, but it all just felt like part of what I had to do. Go to school, get good grades, go to college, and then join the workforce. Back in high school I assumed after getting my bachelor's, I'd go on to graduate school, but I was disenchanted after four years of college. Screw the talk about college being the best years of your life- it was four years of misery for me. Just thinking about it makes me melodramatic. I worry going back to school would hurt me more than help me.
How much would I never learn if I do go back to school? Would I have time to study art, poetry, literature? After all, I seek poetry for comfort, not skeletal formulas (yes, skeletal formulas are a real term, I'm not just trying to make them sound cold and lifeless). I want to capture the art and beauty in scent. A fragrance is more than just the sum of its molecules- for me it's capturing an idea in a bottle. The thought of translating the abstract into a scent fascinates me. Stretching the imagination this way and that leaves me restless, wondering how far it can go before it snaps.
I wish I had time to study everything that interests me- all of the above, plus so much more. I would take this knowledge and blow it up like a giant balloon so close to popping. And then I would ever so gently paint a flower on that balloon.
"Let us go then, you and I,
When the evening is spread out against the sky
Like a patient etherised upon a table;
Let us go, through certain half-deserted streets,
The muttering retreats
Of restless nights in one-night cheap hotels
And sawdust restaurants with oyster-shells:
Streets that follow like a tedious argument
Of insidious intent
To lead you to an overwhelming question...
Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?'
Let us go and make our visit."
-T.S. Eliot, The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock
I answered that finishing something brings me joy. Like putting the finishing touches on something I created, or getting to the end of a difficult book. I do read plenty of books more for knowledge than entertainment, so sometimes just getting through them feels like an accomplishment.
I think I did horribly with that job interview, even ignoring that question, but I got the job anyway. I guess there weren't many other people interested in it, plus I was able to temp while they were deciding. I'm more impressive working than interviewing. During my time there, I learned that there is never an end to anything- assignments from years ago would rise from the dead. Never knowing if something was truly over, I couldn't enjoy anything. I worked there for over eight years, and by the time I quit I was bored and frustrated at the lack of opportunity to advance. The only interesting work left was for me to head down to our "technical books" section and find specifics on semiconductors, 802.11, programming, etc. (By the way, isn't OOPSLA the most fun name for a conference? I just love it.)
I love learning. I've been studying cosmetic chemistry kind of casually since I started the business, but I've been delving deeper into it lately. I listen to chemistry lectures instead of music while working. I read books with funny squiggly carbon chains. Those carbon diagrams used to confuse me, but now I enjoy them. And so I start wondering if I should go back to school and get my master's in cosmetic chemistry.
Oh, but how I hate formal education! I feel like I've learned so much more on my own than I did in school. I did well in school, but it all just felt like part of what I had to do. Go to school, get good grades, go to college, and then join the workforce. Back in high school I assumed after getting my bachelor's, I'd go on to graduate school, but I was disenchanted after four years of college. Screw the talk about college being the best years of your life- it was four years of misery for me. Just thinking about it makes me melodramatic. I worry going back to school would hurt me more than help me.
How much would I never learn if I do go back to school? Would I have time to study art, poetry, literature? After all, I seek poetry for comfort, not skeletal formulas (yes, skeletal formulas are a real term, I'm not just trying to make them sound cold and lifeless). I want to capture the art and beauty in scent. A fragrance is more than just the sum of its molecules- for me it's capturing an idea in a bottle. The thought of translating the abstract into a scent fascinates me. Stretching the imagination this way and that leaves me restless, wondering how far it can go before it snaps.
I wish I had time to study everything that interests me- all of the above, plus so much more. I would take this knowledge and blow it up like a giant balloon so close to popping. And then I would ever so gently paint a flower on that balloon.
"Let us go then, you and I,
When the evening is spread out against the sky
Like a patient etherised upon a table;
Let us go, through certain half-deserted streets,
The muttering retreats
Of restless nights in one-night cheap hotels
And sawdust restaurants with oyster-shells:
Streets that follow like a tedious argument
Of insidious intent
To lead you to an overwhelming question...
Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?'
Let us go and make our visit."
-T.S. Eliot, The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock
Thursday, July 24, 2014
Learning About Lotions Part 5 - The Results
A few weeks ago I made a batch of lotions to try out the "natural" preservatives along with the olive-based emulsifier. I do think with further trials and adjusting the formula it could all be made to work fine. This would involve quite a bit more studying, money, and time, and so in the end I will not be pursuing lotions.
I had split one batch into two, adding Synercide Asian Fusion to one half (Water, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Wasabi Root Extract, Ginger Root Extract, Garlic Bulb Extract), and Leucidal (Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate) to the other. Before splitting the lotion I had added a few preservative extracts (elderberry, aspen bark, and willow bark.) I also included helichrysum extract, which isn't a preservative, but does help with preserving. So far both batches have held up, but it's too early to tell if the preservative systems are working properly. And without challenge testing, I won't know for sure how safe they are.
I had hoped to test each preservative separately (with the exception of the helichrysum extract, which is not a preservative), but I realized I didn't have enough appropriate containers to do so. I'm also unsure if splitting the batch in two is better than creating two separate batches for testing.
I used Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate) for the emulsifier with Oliwax (Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil, Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) to help stabilize the emulsion. Using xanthan gum instead of the Oliwax might have worked better, but I really wanted to try the Oliwax. One of the biggest issues I had was melting the Olivem. If I use it again, I'll need to find a better way to melt it, since my pathetic double boiler set up did not work well.
I'm not sure if the emulsifier hadn't melted properly or wasn't properly blended in, but the Synercide half did not emulsify well. This was the bottom half of the mixture, with the Leucidal half being poured off into another container. The lotion with Synercide is thin and runny, and the water separates out to the bottom when sitting for awhile. I just shake it and use it, but it is gross looking at it when it has separated. The Leucidal lotion has not experienced any of the separation and has a thicker consistency.
I had split one batch into two, adding Synercide Asian Fusion to one half (Water, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Wasabi Root Extract, Ginger Root Extract, Garlic Bulb Extract), and Leucidal (Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate) to the other. Before splitting the lotion I had added a few preservative extracts (elderberry, aspen bark, and willow bark.) I also included helichrysum extract, which isn't a preservative, but does help with preserving. So far both batches have held up, but it's too early to tell if the preservative systems are working properly. And without challenge testing, I won't know for sure how safe they are.
I had hoped to test each preservative separately (with the exception of the helichrysum extract, which is not a preservative), but I realized I didn't have enough appropriate containers to do so. I'm also unsure if splitting the batch in two is better than creating two separate batches for testing.
I used Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate) for the emulsifier with Oliwax (Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil, Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) to help stabilize the emulsion. Using xanthan gum instead of the Oliwax might have worked better, but I really wanted to try the Oliwax. One of the biggest issues I had was melting the Olivem. If I use it again, I'll need to find a better way to melt it, since my pathetic double boiler set up did not work well.
I'm not sure if the emulsifier hadn't melted properly or wasn't properly blended in, but the Synercide half did not emulsify well. This was the bottom half of the mixture, with the Leucidal half being poured off into another container. The lotion with Synercide is thin and runny, and the water separates out to the bottom when sitting for awhile. I just shake it and use it, but it is gross looking at it when it has separated. The Leucidal lotion has not experienced any of the separation and has a thicker consistency.
Tuesday, July 8, 2014
Learning About Lotions Part 3- Emulsifiers
Water + Oil + Sodium Hydroxide = Soap
Water + Oil + Emulsifier = Lotion
That's if all goes well, and there's obviously more to both of them than that. When I learned about lotions a few years ago, I heard about emulsifying wax (sometimes called E-Wax). It's a popular emulsifier for homemade lotions and it works well. Melting the wax and blending it in while still hot to your oils and waters creates your lotion.
A bit later I read about BTMS 50 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol), a conditioning emulsifier. It works well in conditioners, and when used it lotions it can give a powdery feel to the skin. This is a cationic emulsifier, so some preservatives might not work with it.
Some makers use beeswax and borax to create a natural emulsifier, but it doesn't create a stable emulsion. These will need to be shaken to mix the water and oils back together. I find separated lotions kind of gross, and usually toss any I have once they do separate. These lotions were using different emulsifiers and took a couple of years to separate. I'd be disappointed if I had one breaking down so soon.
In my recent experiments I am trying Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate). An olive derived emulsifier sounded cool, plus it emulsifies by forming liquid crystals. But it does have some issues with stability. Adding a thickener like xanthan gum or a co-emulsifier helps stabilize it.
There are a lot of other emulsifiers out there, but these are the three I've tried. I haven't tried (or been tempted to try) the beeswax and borax method.
I'm not particularly interested in emulsifiers, but here are a few things you might want to look into if you are:
Use of silicones
Types of emulsion: Water in Oil, Oil in Water, Water in Silicone
Cold Emulsions
Self-emulsifiers (you don't need to add additional oils to some of these)
Type of product (lotion, conditioner, spray, etc.)
Cationic/non-ionic/anionic
Co-emulsifiers
Stabilizers
Water + Oil + Emulsifier = Lotion
That's if all goes well, and there's obviously more to both of them than that. When I learned about lotions a few years ago, I heard about emulsifying wax (sometimes called E-Wax). It's a popular emulsifier for homemade lotions and it works well. Melting the wax and blending it in while still hot to your oils and waters creates your lotion.
A bit later I read about BTMS 50 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol), a conditioning emulsifier. It works well in conditioners, and when used it lotions it can give a powdery feel to the skin. This is a cationic emulsifier, so some preservatives might not work with it.
Some makers use beeswax and borax to create a natural emulsifier, but it doesn't create a stable emulsion. These will need to be shaken to mix the water and oils back together. I find separated lotions kind of gross, and usually toss any I have once they do separate. These lotions were using different emulsifiers and took a couple of years to separate. I'd be disappointed if I had one breaking down so soon.
In my recent experiments I am trying Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate). An olive derived emulsifier sounded cool, plus it emulsifies by forming liquid crystals. But it does have some issues with stability. Adding a thickener like xanthan gum or a co-emulsifier helps stabilize it.
There are a lot of other emulsifiers out there, but these are the three I've tried. I haven't tried (or been tempted to try) the beeswax and borax method.
I'm not particularly interested in emulsifiers, but here are a few things you might want to look into if you are:
Use of silicones
Types of emulsion: Water in Oil, Oil in Water, Water in Silicone
Cold Emulsions
Self-emulsifiers (you don't need to add additional oils to some of these)
Type of product (lotion, conditioner, spray, etc.)
Cationic/non-ionic/anionic
Co-emulsifiers
Stabilizers
Friday, June 13, 2014
Learning about Lotions Part 1- Preservatives
I've started researching preservatives and other lotion ingredients, and soon I will start experimenting with making lotions again. I don't know if I'll sell lotions- it depends on how the experiments work out. I'll be writing about the various elements of lotions as I go. These are general thoughts, not in depth information on any one item. I find researching lotion making very exciting, and I want to share that knowledge with people who might not know what goes into making lotions. I think it's important to know what is going into the products you use, why they're there, and how they work.
I have made lotions and creams in the past, but I haven't made any to sell. If I were to sell any, I couldn't market my brand as preservative free, because there's no way I'm selling a lotion without something to keep it safe. Recently I've started to feel like calling Ivre de Fleurs a preservative brand is causing me to be a part of the scaremongering against preservatives, and I don't want that. I want to make products as naturally as I can, but I also don't want to be limited to using only ingredients that the average person can pronounce.
I'm starting with some natural preservatives in my experiments. It sounds like they don't work well for the most part, but maybe I can get them to work somehow. The ones I'm trying now are various fermentations and extracts, and some offer additional benefits beyond preserving. If they don't work, I'll start looking into other preservatives. A broad-spectrum preservative system is important to keep your water-based products free from bacteria, yeast, mold, and fungus out there. I've got a little kit to test for preservative efficacy, so I should be able to determine some things quickly, but then you have to make sure it works over time (no separating, no mold or fungus, no other nasty things). If I have a good recipe, I'd need to send it off for challenge testing, to make sure it's verified safe.
Parabens are one of the preservatives that you hear most often about, and usually not in a good way. Parabens are actually really good at preserving products, they are used at very small percentages, and I'm not convinced they'll lead me to a long and painful death. While a lot of people don't bother to check the labels of their beauty products, those that do often don't want parabens in them, so I'll be skipping them.
By the way, honeysuckle extract has a molecule that acts like a paraben. I've only read a little into it, and I'm not sure if it's effective as parabens are, but if you are avoiding parabens, you might want to add honeysuckle extract to your list of ingredients to avoid. Grapefruit seed extract might also have parabens in it- the parabens are being used to preserve the extract, and are then helping to preserve the final product. It seems like there's a lot of controversy on grapefruit seed extract, so I don't want to go there.
Formaldehyde donors are another type of preservative, but I haven't read too much into them yet. I have no plans to use them, but I'd still like to read up on them some more.
There are a few preservatives that can be listed as "parfum" or "fragrance" on a label. If a product claims to be preservative free but lists fragrance, they may or may not be using that fragrance to preserve the product. I've read of two- one that has a rosy scent, and another that's more vanilla/almond. I'm slightly confused as to why fragrance would be preferable to preservatives, but I guess it depends on why you're avoiding an ingredient.
I have made lotions and creams in the past, but I haven't made any to sell. If I were to sell any, I couldn't market my brand as preservative free, because there's no way I'm selling a lotion without something to keep it safe. Recently I've started to feel like calling Ivre de Fleurs a preservative brand is causing me to be a part of the scaremongering against preservatives, and I don't want that. I want to make products as naturally as I can, but I also don't want to be limited to using only ingredients that the average person can pronounce.
I'm starting with some natural preservatives in my experiments. It sounds like they don't work well for the most part, but maybe I can get them to work somehow. The ones I'm trying now are various fermentations and extracts, and some offer additional benefits beyond preserving. If they don't work, I'll start looking into other preservatives. A broad-spectrum preservative system is important to keep your water-based products free from bacteria, yeast, mold, and fungus out there. I've got a little kit to test for preservative efficacy, so I should be able to determine some things quickly, but then you have to make sure it works over time (no separating, no mold or fungus, no other nasty things). If I have a good recipe, I'd need to send it off for challenge testing, to make sure it's verified safe.
Parabens are one of the preservatives that you hear most often about, and usually not in a good way. Parabens are actually really good at preserving products, they are used at very small percentages, and I'm not convinced they'll lead me to a long and painful death. While a lot of people don't bother to check the labels of their beauty products, those that do often don't want parabens in them, so I'll be skipping them.
By the way, honeysuckle extract has a molecule that acts like a paraben. I've only read a little into it, and I'm not sure if it's effective as parabens are, but if you are avoiding parabens, you might want to add honeysuckle extract to your list of ingredients to avoid. Grapefruit seed extract might also have parabens in it- the parabens are being used to preserve the extract, and are then helping to preserve the final product. It seems like there's a lot of controversy on grapefruit seed extract, so I don't want to go there.
Formaldehyde donors are another type of preservative, but I haven't read too much into them yet. I have no plans to use them, but I'd still like to read up on them some more.
There are a few preservatives that can be listed as "parfum" or "fragrance" on a label. If a product claims to be preservative free but lists fragrance, they may or may not be using that fragrance to preserve the product. I've read of two- one that has a rosy scent, and another that's more vanilla/almond. I'm slightly confused as to why fragrance would be preferable to preservatives, but I guess it depends on why you're avoiding an ingredient.
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Book Review- An Introduction to Perfumery
An Introduction to Perfumery, 2nd ed., by Tony Curtis and David G. Williams, Port Washington, NY: Micelle Press, 2001 (reprinted 2007 and 2009 with corrections). ISBN: 9780960875283 (USA) 9781870228244 (UK)
This is a textbook- not light reading, and while it's called an introduction, it's pretty intense for someone who might want a few ideas of things to blend to make a perfume. A lot of it is about working at a perfume house, and if you're anything like me, that's not happening. It goes over things like the chemistry and business of perfumery, including the things you might not want to think about, such as the household cleaners that need scenting. A lot of the experiments talk about using a lab, and if you're just sitting at home reading this, chances are you won't be able to do a lot of them.
I wanted to start with that so that no one invests the money in this book who won't find it suitable for their needs. For me personally, this was a great book, though not always the most fun to read. It covers many aspects, including the aroma chemicals and essential oils that might want to learn about, plus experiments on creating floral bases, such as lilac, rose, and gardenia. If you're interested primarily in natural perfumery, this book is probably not the best for you, since it doesn't go in depth into how to use the naturals.
I liked how it covered the chemistry aspects of perfumery, though those sections were sometimes daunting. The applications of perfumery sections were useful in learning exactly why chemistry is so important- not all scents are suited to all applications. It was a bit silly the way they talked about fragrance and some products you don't associate with fine perfumery, but products like laundry detergent and dish soap have their scents developed by perfumers.
As someone who thinks about top, middle, and base notes, it was also interesting to think of how some products don't need an evolving scent- for example, candles need to give off the same scent throughout their burning.
While the business sections of the book might be interesting for someone, they're more focused on big businesses rather than small, independent perfumers. It covers things like marketing, management, operations, and product development.
While I would not recommend this book to most people, I do think anyone who has a serious interest in all aspects of perfumery and fragrance might be able to useful. While I was certainly bored at times while reading the book, overall I'm glad I read it.
This is a textbook- not light reading, and while it's called an introduction, it's pretty intense for someone who might want a few ideas of things to blend to make a perfume. A lot of it is about working at a perfume house, and if you're anything like me, that's not happening. It goes over things like the chemistry and business of perfumery, including the things you might not want to think about, such as the household cleaners that need scenting. A lot of the experiments talk about using a lab, and if you're just sitting at home reading this, chances are you won't be able to do a lot of them.
I wanted to start with that so that no one invests the money in this book who won't find it suitable for their needs. For me personally, this was a great book, though not always the most fun to read. It covers many aspects, including the aroma chemicals and essential oils that might want to learn about, plus experiments on creating floral bases, such as lilac, rose, and gardenia. If you're interested primarily in natural perfumery, this book is probably not the best for you, since it doesn't go in depth into how to use the naturals.
I liked how it covered the chemistry aspects of perfumery, though those sections were sometimes daunting. The applications of perfumery sections were useful in learning exactly why chemistry is so important- not all scents are suited to all applications. It was a bit silly the way they talked about fragrance and some products you don't associate with fine perfumery, but products like laundry detergent and dish soap have their scents developed by perfumers.
As someone who thinks about top, middle, and base notes, it was also interesting to think of how some products don't need an evolving scent- for example, candles need to give off the same scent throughout their burning.
While the business sections of the book might be interesting for someone, they're more focused on big businesses rather than small, independent perfumers. It covers things like marketing, management, operations, and product development.
While I would not recommend this book to most people, I do think anyone who has a serious interest in all aspects of perfumery and fragrance might be able to useful. While I was certainly bored at times while reading the book, overall I'm glad I read it.
Tuesday, December 17, 2013
Women and Science
I love science. There is so much out there in science, and I really regret not pursuing it in college. I was rather good at chemistry, did well in biology, and had so much fun in bacteriology. I never did physics, mostly because I wasn't going to be able to get into "honors" class since I didn't take the "honors" Algebra II class. I'm not much of a math person, though I did well in the classes that I did take. My chemistry class in college was simpler than the chemistry class I took in high school, and while it was interesting, it was practically a joke.
I see stuff in the news about getting little girls interested in STEM subjects, with Goldie Blox and what not, but I think there needs to be more focus on keeping teenage girls interested in science, and let them know what studying science can lead to career-wise. I'm more interested in science (in particular the parts that relate to beauty products and scent), but technology, engineering, and math probably have interesting career paths that should be considered and promoted.
Science feels like it's come up a lot for me personally in the last few years. Being married to a software engineer (who reads physics textbooks for fun) certainly helps with that, but in other ways as well. At my most recent show, I was asked by a few people whether I had a science background. While most of the beauty products I make don't involve complex scientific knowledge, there is still science to them. I study the properties of different oils and butters- the types of fats in them can change how they work, so the oil you need depends on the type of product you're making.
Soap making is fun, because it involves a chemical reaction right before your eyes- lye (either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide in water) combines with oil to make soap! At least real soap, not the detergents you'll see sold at most stores. You need to use some math (not scary math, and there are calculators available online just for this purpose) to calculate how much lye you need to saponify your oils. Different oils have different requirements for lye, and typically you're using more than one type of oil to make your soap. This goes back to the above, where the composition of the oils bring different properties to your soap. Since you don't want any lye left over in your soap, you superfat your recipe, which means you need to calculate your lye so that not all of the oils are saponified. Superfatting means you're left with some left over oils in your soap, which makes it good for you skin.
Lotions present a different set of science issues- like soap, you're combining oil and water, but you want different results.An emulsifier is needed to keep the water and oil from separating. You have water phases and oil phases, you keep track of their temperatures, and combine them into a magical creamy lotion. Then you need a preservative- this is where biology and bacteriology come in. Lotions are good breeding grounds for all sorts mold, bacteria, fungus, etc., so a preservative slows that growth down.
I've been getting my science fix that way for awhile, but now I'm spending more time studying chemistry in regards to perfumery. There's the components of the essential oils, plus I'm reading up on some of the aromachemicals out there.
I see stuff in the news about getting little girls interested in STEM subjects, with Goldie Blox and what not, but I think there needs to be more focus on keeping teenage girls interested in science, and let them know what studying science can lead to career-wise. I'm more interested in science (in particular the parts that relate to beauty products and scent), but technology, engineering, and math probably have interesting career paths that should be considered and promoted.
Science feels like it's come up a lot for me personally in the last few years. Being married to a software engineer (who reads physics textbooks for fun) certainly helps with that, but in other ways as well. At my most recent show, I was asked by a few people whether I had a science background. While most of the beauty products I make don't involve complex scientific knowledge, there is still science to them. I study the properties of different oils and butters- the types of fats in them can change how they work, so the oil you need depends on the type of product you're making.
Soap making is fun, because it involves a chemical reaction right before your eyes- lye (either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide in water) combines with oil to make soap! At least real soap, not the detergents you'll see sold at most stores. You need to use some math (not scary math, and there are calculators available online just for this purpose) to calculate how much lye you need to saponify your oils. Different oils have different requirements for lye, and typically you're using more than one type of oil to make your soap. This goes back to the above, where the composition of the oils bring different properties to your soap. Since you don't want any lye left over in your soap, you superfat your recipe, which means you need to calculate your lye so that not all of the oils are saponified. Superfatting means you're left with some left over oils in your soap, which makes it good for you skin.
Lotions present a different set of science issues- like soap, you're combining oil and water, but you want different results.An emulsifier is needed to keep the water and oil from separating. You have water phases and oil phases, you keep track of their temperatures, and combine them into a magical creamy lotion. Then you need a preservative- this is where biology and bacteriology come in. Lotions are good breeding grounds for all sorts mold, bacteria, fungus, etc., so a preservative slows that growth down.
I've been getting my science fix that way for awhile, but now I'm spending more time studying chemistry in regards to perfumery. There's the components of the essential oils, plus I'm reading up on some of the aromachemicals out there.
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
To soap or not to soap
The idea of making cold process soap excited me so much. Chemistry, fragrance, and color combine into one little bar. But unfortunately, it seems to draw out the mad scientist in me, leaving me with the occasional bad batch. In trying to clear out space for all the supplies I need for my business, I've been making soaps with odds and ends. Sometimes the results are good. A recent soap came out quite nicely, with a cheerful yellow color (from turmeric and madder root infused oils) and bright pink jojoba beads dotting the top. The smell is a strong citrus floral, made by combining a fragrance oil with orange essential oil. The oils used were a bit of a hodgepodge, but it had no problems setting up.
But then the most recent batch did not work out as well. The color is OK, though not as vibrant. This one had only madder root for color, and the color is a bit of a muted yellow. The fragrance is fine, but a bit strange, since I threw in various fragrance oil samples with some left over citrus oils. I didn't throw in any strange oils, though it was my first time using hydrogenated soybean oil as a replacement for palm. In the end the soap cracked all across the top after a few hours in the molds. I'll test it in a few days to see if it's lye-heavy, but I'm hoping it just overheated. Either way, I won't be giving any of this batch to friends and family, since I don't want to worry about what I'm giving to them.
On the plus side, the perfumery text book I'm reading has a nice long chapter on organic chemistry. So even if I don't continue with soap, there will be other opportunities for my inner scientist.
But then the most recent batch did not work out as well. The color is OK, though not as vibrant. This one had only madder root for color, and the color is a bit of a muted yellow. The fragrance is fine, but a bit strange, since I threw in various fragrance oil samples with some left over citrus oils. I didn't throw in any strange oils, though it was my first time using hydrogenated soybean oil as a replacement for palm. In the end the soap cracked all across the top after a few hours in the molds. I'll test it in a few days to see if it's lye-heavy, but I'm hoping it just overheated. Either way, I won't be giving any of this batch to friends and family, since I don't want to worry about what I'm giving to them.
On the plus side, the perfumery text book I'm reading has a nice long chapter on organic chemistry. So even if I don't continue with soap, there will be other opportunities for my inner scientist.
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