Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Getting Back to Business After Lasik

I had wavefront Lasik done on both eyes last Thursday, and it's been a little hard getting back into business mode. On Wednesday night, I worked on a perfume to keep my mind of what was to come the next day, but then I ended up spilling it before getting to the top notes. On the plus side, it seems like it could be nice with some tweaking.

I got nothing done on Thursday, of course. After the surgery I needed to keep my eyes closed the rest of the day, so that's not conducive to productivity. I'd like to say it's a good chance to relax, but it's hard to relaxing when you can't quite sleep or nap, but you can't have your eyes open either.

Friday I could start doing things, but any computer work strained my eyes too much. I did make a batch of lip balm, so at least I got something done! But I haven't done much since then.There are certainly days I don't feel like doing much, especially after putting in a full day at my day job. With my eyes dry and tired, I've been feeling like that every day lately.

I'm finally feeling fine in front of the computer, so hopefully I can make labels, update my website, or do any of the other little tasks that await me. 

Friday, July 19, 2013

Experimenting with Lip Balm

One of the problems with lip balm is that it's very hard to make enough for base/flavor for just one tube. A single tube is .15 ounces, so making enough base from scratch for even ten tubes isn't easy. An accurate scale helps, but measuring .15 of this and .05 of that is kind of difficult. At the same time, I don't recommend making big batches, since then you might end up with 40 tubes of unusable lip balm. After making too many big batches that were no good, I needed to figure out a way to test bases and flavors without wasting too much. I use fancy carrier oils, so having those go to waste is not only sad, but costly. And while lip balm tubes are cheap, you don't want to throw more plastic in the trash than absolutely necessary.

For flavors, I figured out a decent way of testing them. I start by creating or melting down a small batch of base. I use the tiny disk clamshells from Majestic Mountain Sage, because it has a lot of room to stick labels with notes on them. I think something like these might work as well- they're cheaper, but don't have as much room for notes. I add a few drops of my flavor to the clamshell. In my case, single essential oils or essential oil blends, but this could work for testing out flavor oils, too. I add a small amount of base, and stir quickly to mix them in together. I then move on to the next flavor. Try not to have the base too hot- it might start melting the clamshell, and it could also weaken the flavor of essential oils with low flash points.

Testing out a base is trickier. Once you have a good idea of what you want, make the base, perhaps adding less of the ingredient you're unsure of. In my case, I'm trying to use candelilla wax instead of beeswax, because I want my products to appeal to as broad an audience as possible, including vegans. Since candelilla wax has a higher melting temperature, I don't need as much of it, but I'm not sure exactly how much I need. So I started with about half as much as beeswax, and the base into a single tube. Once cooled, I tested it, and determined it wasn't harder enough. I added a little more candelilla, and tested again. This time it was better- firmer, but not so hard that it's unpleasant. Once you have it right, you're free to flavor and pour into your remaining tubes.

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

To soap or not to soap

The idea of making cold process soap excited me so much. Chemistry, fragrance, and color combine into one little bar. But unfortunately, it seems to draw out the mad scientist in me, leaving me with the occasional bad batch. In trying to clear out space for all the supplies I need for my business, I've been making soaps with odds and ends. Sometimes the results are good. A recent soap came out quite nicely, with a cheerful yellow color (from turmeric and madder root infused oils) and bright pink jojoba beads dotting the top. The smell is a strong citrus floral, made by combining a fragrance oil with orange essential oil. The oils used were a bit of a hodgepodge, but it had no problems setting up.

But then the most recent batch did not work out as well. The color is OK, though not as vibrant. This one had only madder root for color, and the color is a bit of a muted yellow. The fragrance is fine, but a bit strange, since I threw in various fragrance oil samples with some left over citrus oils. I didn't throw in any strange oils, though it was my first time using hydrogenated soybean oil as a replacement for palm. In the end the soap cracked all across the top after a few hours in the molds. I'll test it in a few days to see if it's lye-heavy, but I'm hoping it just overheated. Either way, I won't be giving any of this batch to friends and family, since I don't want to worry about what I'm giving to them.

On the plus side, the perfumery text book I'm reading has a nice long chapter on organic chemistry. So even if I don't continue with soap, there will be other opportunities for my inner scientist.

Monday, July 1, 2013

Jasmine Lip Balm

I love jasmine, both the flower and the fragrance. It works so wonderfully in perfumes, and I really want it to work in lip balms. But the indolic quality of jasmine that makes it sexy in a perfume makes it kind of gross as a lip balm. I've tried two combinations, and they weren't bad to me, but my tester did not like them. I'd like to track down a jasmine that's less dirty and try it out, but that might take awhile. So in the meantime, no jasmine lip balms.

Fortunately, other flowers work fine in lip balms. They might not be to everyone's liking, but as someone who loves floral teas and candies, I think they can make nice flavors.